Sri Lanka – The Destination’s Big Comeback

With an eventful history that’s witnessed ethnic conflict, natural disaster, and economic crises, Sri Lanka has endured constant ups and downs. Travel advisors keep asking themselves: Can I send my clients there? LuxuryWise answers with a loud, resounding “YES!” Spectacular nature and cultural treasures are just the beginning to the most underestimated destination in the world – an island that has transformed itself into a luxury travel paradise with charming service.

For Context

There are outstanding tour guides around the world, but if your clients are lucky enough to travel with Imal (pictured) from andBeyond, he’ll be the one that opens the soul of “his” country to them (Amen!). With the patience and empathy of an angel, he explains cultural peculiarities, politics, and the current situation using authentic insights and examples from the everyday lives of Sri Lankans. Let’s begin by dispelling concerns about supply bottlenecks from the last economic crisis. At that time, fuel – among other things – was very scarce, and in order to get some, Imal had to pitch a tent at a gas station for the night just so he could siphon off a few liters at dawn. Fortunately, those difficult times are over.

And just FYI – Sri Lankan is the officially correct term, even if half the world says Sinhalese. Although Sinhalese are the largest ethnic group in Sri Lanka, they are just one of them among the Tamils and other, smaller groups.

On the Road

This tropical island just 50 kilometers (31mi.) off the southern tip of India is brimming with spectacularly diverse highlights, both natural and cultural. Comparatively, the country has a population similar to Florida (about 22 million), and is about the size of the state of West Virginia. It’s where travelers will find a total of eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites – six cultural monuments and two natural sites.

Sri Lanka may not be a large country, but travel times tend to be lengthy as there are few highways and the small country roads snake through beautiful mountains and valleys. If clients keep their eyes peeled, they’ll surely see one of the fun and colorful intercity buses with disco lights and music (pictured).

For a relaxed arrival, use the bookable airport service that picks up your client directly at the plane for $52 USD, takes them to an arrival lounge, handles their luggage and customs, and then opens a separate exit door for them. Very smooth!

Top Hotels

Ceylon Tea Trails, Lake Castlereagh

On the way to the first hotel, the transfer feels less like a van and more like a time machine, because the landscape makes me feel like I’ve just stepped into the old British Empire among the tea plantations. We arrive at Lake Castlereagh in the Central Highlands, and after a short boat trip across I am warmly welcomed to my home for the next two nights. It feels like a completely different world. It’s lovingly restored and decorated down to the smallest detail, with antique equipment such as record players and cameras, as well as beautiful flower bouquets. The estate comprises five tea plantation bungalows, each with five or six rooms. There are a total of 27 rooms, suites, and a cottage, which are spread across the large plantation. Fun fact: this is where world-famous tea brand Dilmah was founded, whose founding family is also behind Resplendent Ceylon Hotels.

Each bungalow has its own manager, who is happy to take and fulfill requests. The chef and service staff discuss lunch and dinner options together with guests every morning. Like all three Resplendent hotels, Ceylon Tea Trails is part of Relais & Châteaux, so there is hardly anything more to say about the culinary side of things. At the “Tea Infused Dinner,” for example, every course is all about tea. The drinks menu, which is gin-heavy because of the region, includes libations such as a gin mint tea, which fits the setting perfectly. There’s no espresso machine in the suite. Instead, morning tea and coffee are ordered by ringing the bell. It’s a very personal touch that goes well with these enchanting, mist-covered hills. During my short stay I’m able to visit three of the five bungalows, since two are in neighboring valleys about half an hour away. Of the three around the lake, the Summerhill Bungalow is my favorite for its location and layout, especially the Garden Suite “Cosby” and its lake view.

Score bonus points with your clients by sending them directly to the lake by seaplane, which offers a much more relaxed arrival (and views!).

Image credit: Wild Coast Lodge

Wild Coast Tented Lodge, Yala National Park

Nestled between the jungle and the beach of Sri Lanka’s wild southeast coast I’m in a completely different world again as I check into a glamping lodge. Honestly, it’s love at first sight, and the buffalo milk coconut ice cream is a local snack that instantly makes me feel welcome and taken care of. The Wild Coast Tented Lodge is located on the edge of the famous Yala National Park, which is known for its leopard population. In fact, these animals were the inspiration for the layout of the lodge. From an aerial perspective, the 28 tented suites look like the paw print of a giant cat. The lodge area is not fenced in, so guests will feel the wilderness as the playful monkeys, elephants, and other animals galavant around. Not to worry though – the lodge is carefully monitored by numerous cameras and each “cocoon” (as the tents are called here) has an “animal moment” call button if anyone gets spooked. From the outside the freestanding cocoons resemble small blimps or even submersibles. On the inside though, any client who loves vintage interiors will be very pleased. It almost feels like being on an expedition with Indiana Jones, except a more luxurious (and less dangerous) version. There’s a large four-poster bed with a mosquito net, a desk with a view through large windows, a very tasteful minibar, and lots of leather, fabric, and sisal carpets. The highlight is the free-standing copper bathtub in the bathroom area. All cocoons have their own wooden deck, four have their own pool, and some are even family-style with a small “side tent” for the kids. The central bamboo pavilion covers the main common area and its pool, bar, and à la carte restaurant that serves local specialties. The beach dinner and its delicious seafood platter by torchlight is very romantic. I’m also charmed by the waiters, who insist on lighting my way there so I don’t have any unpleasant serpentine surprises.

A game drive in the early morning or afternoon is included in the stay, but be straightforward with your clients. Safari connoisseurs or fans of private game drives in Africa should not expect an experience on the same level or scale. Yala is a public national park, which is noticeable. Fortunately, the lodge is already working on a solution for its own guests (see above).

Image credit: Kayaam House

Kayaam House, Tangalle

I have to give Sri Lanka points for range and variety, as each hotel has a completely different style and this quickly becomes a recurring theme throughout the trip. Kayaam House greets me with a welcome drink called “Hello My Friend,” which is exactly how it makes me feel. The design boutique hotel with just nine rooms and suites has only been part of the Dilmah and Resplendent family’s Reverie Collection for a year and a half, and was formerly a private home and wedding gift. Even the approach on the small, unpaved road will give your clients the vibe – the region around Tangalle is not yet as touristy as Bentota and Galle. Instead, they’ll find small, authentic hotels and lots of surfers. The peaceful oasis of Kayaam House itself sits at the end of a long, beautiful stretch of beach that’s perfect for relaxing walks, (but not recommended for swimming). The scenery coupled with the modern, calming interiors will flip that switch and immediately put your clients in that relaxing mood they long for. It’s the ideal atmosphere to unwind after a trip full of cultural experiences and impressions. The service is discreet and well-trained to maintain this chill vibe for guests. For example, as soon as I check in I’m told that there won’t be anyone constantly lurking in the corner, that all I have to do is raise my hand and my wishes will be granted at once. The hotels in the Reverie Collection are not part of Relais & Châteaux, so the menu is not geared towards large dinners with lots of courses and chi-chi, but it does have locally and internationally mixed dishes with a farm-to-table concept. If clients wish to eat outside regular times they just have to let the staff know.

This place is also ideal for guests who want to take a little time out for body and soul. Originally opened as a leisure hotel, for the last eight months Kayaam House has been offering Ayurveda packages, which run from three days and up. About half of guests reportedly take advantage of the professional consultations, yoga on the beach or in the garden pavilion, as well as treatments and meals tailored to their body type.

Image credit: Cape Weligama

Cape Weligama, Galle

No Resplendent tour would be complete without the flagship of the family-run group. To round out the trip, I make a short but unforgettable stop at Cape Weligama before heading back to Colombo International Airport. Just 30 minutes east of Galle – the port city with Portuguese, Dutch, and British colonial influences – the resort majestically sits high above the Indian Ocean on its own peninsula, and the crescent-shaped infinity pool provides the perfect setting for dreamy sunsets.

The resort’s 39 suites and villas are spread across a lush green garden area like a charming Sri Lankan village. Even the smallest junior suites are very spacious at 130 square meters (1,400sq. ft.). Personally I enjoy getting lost in my 180 square meter (1,937sq. ft.) Premier Villa (pictured above), with my own small spa area, its free-standing bathtub, the walk-in steam bath shower, dressing room, bedroom, living area, and spacious terrace. Cape Weligama is also part of Relais & Châteaux, so it offers excellent cuisine and a large spa for all guests’ wellbeing needs.

More News from Resplendent Ceylon

Just in time for its tenth anniversary, the flagship Cape Weligama is taking a beauty break beginning the end of August to be extensively renovated. Scheduled to reopen on December 1st this year, it’ll shine with renewed splendor and be even more family-friendly. That’s all thanks to eight new two-bedroom family suites, which can also be connected to a junior or master suite, as well as the new Green Kids Club. But the biggest highlight will be Cape Cove Beach in a private beach cove – a rare pearl in Sri Lanka, as there are no private beaches here.

On the must-see list of most guests is the cultural triangle of Sri Lanka – located in the middle of the island between Kandy, Anuradhapura, and Polonnaruwa, with Sigiriya Rock at the center. So far Resplendent doesn’t have anything here, but the 33-room Canopy Lodge is expected to open in Dambulla at the end of 2025, surrounded by an ancient forest and with views of the lake and mountains. Luxurious tree houses, connected by bridges at different heights, will criss-cross the forest. Like Tea Trails, Wild Coast Tented Lodge, and Cape Weligama, Canopy Lodge will be part of Relais & Châteaux.

What’s more is that on the east coast, the Fernando family has already purchased another site with plans for a resort in an undeveloped region. We’ll of course have updates on this exciting news as we learn more.

Top Experiences

Tea Experience

Sometimes luck is on your side, sometimes it’s not. In my case it wasn’t – the day we were supposed to have the Tea Experience the tea master had to go to the hospital and the harvest was sparse, meaning that processing had come to a standstill. Your clients will likely have better luck (and certainly more time). Despite our circumstances, the nature guide (pictured) takes the lead and explains everything from the harvest to the official tea auction in Colombo. His talents really shine during the nature walk through the plantation hills though, and he grins from ear to ear as he grabs a cobra by its collar on the edge of the path. A simple and delicious Planters Lunch on the mountain with a view of the lake – a curry picnic and a chilled glass of white wine – helps me relax and recoup!

Temple Visit

The Sri Dalada Maligawa in Kandy, also known as the Temple of the Tooth, is home to Buddha’s left canine tooth. This sacred relic makes the temple a once-in-a-lifetime must-do for Sri Lankans. The central shrine is opened three times a day and crowds of pilgrims cling together with their offerings, lining up in the hopes of getting their turn to see it before the shrine is suddenly closed again. This time luck was on our side, and our guide timed it perfectly. After the tea experience, I could feel the karma coming back onto an even keel. Or perhaps it was because our guide knew what kind of flowers the monks preferred, making it more likely that we were able to see this ancient relic and its shrine? Sometimes it’s better to make your own luck!

Train Trek

Taking a van or domestic flight across the country is the comfortable alternative, but a train ride through the mountains of Sri Lanka should not be overlooked from any itinerary – even if Instagram is teeming with them. Simply ignore the selfie posers and wannabe models and enjoy the view after your own short photo session. It’s also a great opportunity to connect with fellow travelers, as it’s easily one of the most beautiful stretches of countryside between Hatton and Ella. The four-hour ride is just enough to connect on a deeper level if you give it a chance. But caveat emptor: 1st class is nonsense. You can open the windows in 2nd class, otherwise there’s not much difference. MICE idea: Book the old steam trains as a full charter for 60 to 100 people!

Yala National Park

We value our honesty and integrity above all, even when it’s tough. That’s why we owe it to you, dear readers, to report that my safari experience included in the Wild Coast Tented Lodge was suboptimal at best. I almost jumped out of the car wedged between 30 other safari jeeps reeking of exhaust fumes to run away, even to risk the leopard I finally spotted making me its prey. There are very few restrictions here in Yala National Park. This may appeal to some photo-hunting guests, but certainly not to animal lovers. Fortunately, my guide from the lodge realizes that I’m feeling very, very uncomfortable and doesn’t join in with the sometimes aggressive over-enthusiasm of the other drivers and guides. But we still can’t get out of the crowd.

I do breathe a sigh of relief when I learn that the Resplendent family is already working on a solution to the problem and wants to offer alternatives very soon. They include exclusive game drives in the less frequented Block 5 of the park, a private sundowner observation deck, and more private nature walks around the lodge.

Elephant Orphanage

There are currently around 6,000 elephants living in the wild in Sri Lanka. Hunting has thankfully been banned, but such a large animal eats a lot, and the farmers tend to set traps. At the Elephant Transit Home in Udawalawe National Park, the little gray orphans are taken in for a maximum of five years. They are then released back into the wild and monitored with a tracker for another five years. Thanks to this orphan program, over 100 elephants have already been rescued, nursed, and released back into the wild. The feedings of these playful, trunked animals are a tourist magnet, and that goes also for the local Sri Lankans as well. I find myself sitting in the middle of happy families and school classes alike. And I am just as happy about the beaming eyes of the children around me as I am about the trumpeting little elephants.

My tip: Book your clients’ visits at feeding time in the morning or at midday – it’s already too dark in the evenings. Make sure they get there early, otherwise they won’t be able to find a seat.

Turtles

Have your clients’ cameras and their journals ready for this one! A visit to the Turtle Conservation Rekawa on the beach near Tangalle is, simply put, heartwarming. The two and a half kilometer (1.5mi.) stretch of beach is a designated protective reserve for turtles, and swimming is prohibited throughout this zone. The community project is run by dedicated volunteers. Every evening guests can try their luck and watch the protected animals quietly and reverently as they lay their eggs. It does require patience at the visitor center though, as everyone has to wait for a special signal from the nest protectors, who watch over the beach every night. Only when the turtles have finished digging their nest can observers set off in small groups, when the females have fallen into a kind of trance and are no longer taking note of any visitors.

The nocturnal crossing along the beach is illuminated only by a very dim infrared flashlight. The best chance to experience this unique natural wonder is between April and July – the peak season for turtles.

In a Nutshell

If your clients really want to get to know a country, the best way is to meet its people. In this respect, they’ll find no better place to do that than Sri Lanka. The after-effects of the pandemic are noticeable, as good staff are hard to find. Nevertheless, I experienced wonderful people and very warm service. The country is rich in both culture and in nature, and although it’s still considered a developing country, it’s much cleaner and more welcoming than you might expect. Clients will undoubtedly fall in love with it, and the potential to inspire them is almost limitless, as even many frequent travelers have not yet discovered this part of Asia.

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Picture of Iris M. Köpke
Iris M. Köpke

LuxuryWise Editor-in-Chief Iris M. Koepke lost her heart to the travel industry 19 years ago. She has worked with leading media outlets in Germany and loves writing features that are both fun and helpful for travel advisors.

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